Andalucia

Travel makes one modest. You see what a tiny place you occupy in the world

Flaubert

Andalucia is famed for its beaches, mountains and food… boy does it deliver on its reputation. Everything you experience in this region exceeds expectations and makes you feel as if you’ve discovered the true heart of Spain.

Where to go in Andalucia

Andalucia is a large region in Southern Spain, making up about a quarter of the country. Typically, the majority of tourists travelling to Andalucia will fly into Malaga for a classic Spanish beach holiday, often travelling no further East than Granada, sometimes only for a day trip. Or they’ll take a short break in Seville, soaking up the culture and romance. All three cities are famous for good reason, however if you’re looking to get off the beaten path I’d recommend flying in to Almeria and heading up into the Sierra Nevada mountains.

Almeria is a much smaller airport than Malaga and often flights to Almeria are a cheaper option. The airport does have plenty of car hire desks and whether you pre-book or rock up fresh from your flight, it shouldn’t take long until you’re settled into your vehicle and hitting the open road.

Almeria airport is located right on the coast, so it makes sense to enjoy some beach time before you head further inland. The A7 and N-340a roads run West from Almeria along the coast and there are plenty of places to swing off, park your car and take a dip in the Mediterranean.

Exploring the Sierra Nevada

Once you’ve had your fill of sand and sea it’s time to conquer the Sierra Nevada mountain range. This region is classic Andalucia as you’ve imagined it – tiny whitewashed villages perched on looming cliff faces. You really do need a vehicle to explore this remote region, and the driving can be either terrifying or exhilarating, depending on how much of an adrenaline-junkie you are (think winding roads with steep descents).

Accommodation in Sierra Nevada

This is the type of holiday where you’ll do best to book an airbnb or two – immerse yourself in village life and get to know the locals. We booked with an independent company called Las Chimeneas – they offer “accommodation, activities and discovery” in the small village of Mairena, situated in a region known as Las Alpujarras.

The accommodation was just stunning, with old buildings maintained in traditional Andalucian style – think stone walls and beautifully tiled floors. As well as several accommodation options, the company owned a lovely restaurant and an organic farm on which they grew olive trees and other regional produce. The food served in the restaurant was cooked in traditional style by locals who had grown up in the village, using produce fresh from the surrounding fields. It absolutely blew us away and completely changed the way I thought about Spanish food.

Things to do in Las Alpujarras

We didn’t run out of things to do during our stay in Mairena village. Our accommodation had a small plunge pool with incredible views over the valley, so we spent plenty of time relaxing with a book and our feet dipped in the cool water. As long as you’re not visiting in the height of summer it’s a great area for hiking and we did one full-day hike and several other smaller walks. We also had a guided tour of the company’s farmland and learnt about how they harvested the olives and other produce. To be honest, just the pleasure of being outside in the fresh mountain air, surrounded by trees and plants and all the lovely things that mother nature provides was what really made the trip for us – we could have been doing anything.

Weather in Sierra Nevada

Most of the year sees weather that’s perfect for holidaying – sunny and dry with varying temperatures from start to end, depending on your preference. Don’t forget that this is a high-altitude region and for a few months over winter it does get very cold. If you’re more of a snow-baby than a sun-worshipper there are plenty of traditional winter activities on offer, including skiing and husky-sledding. But each season brings its own charm here – that’s the joy of spending time in a place where day to day life runs in tune with the cycles of the earth.

Favourite memory in Andalucia: Being befriended by a tiny white dog that would follow us around as we went for strolls through Mairena village

Best food in Andalucia: Anything cooked in oil made from olives freshly picked in nearby orchards